Why People Don't Care About Audi G28
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How to Replace an audi keyfob G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is situated near the transmission's edge, above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located on the outside of the transmission, audi a3 key - Wifidb.science - directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control fuel, timig and boost. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky because there are two connector pins and they perform different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure resistance between the sensor and the ECU. If the sensor is operational, it should read around 1000 ohms. Check for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay if you have issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll, I experienced an abrupt drop in power like the engine is out of gas or injectors aren't firing any more. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine, there are no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stay closed. I checked the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 I got 0ohm. I'm assuming the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it is running fine with the G28 connected. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much all other possibilities out. However, i'm afraid that I may have missed something. Let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 receives a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both are used in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a salvage yard or from a parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make a decision about fuel injector timing etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you have a problem with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter and a gearbox which shifts faster than normal, or a misfire while in gear. If you have any of these issues it is most likely that your sensor is deteriorating and requires replacement audi car key. The good news is they are very affordable and readily available particularly if you're looking at an Bosch unit which is what ours are. Alternatively, GM's version of this component is an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission in your new audi keys, as it transmits information to the ECU on how fast or slow the engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via an uncolored wire. The ECU uses this signal to control the flow of fuel and boost as well as timig. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor replacement key for audi failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these points. This is a common part across the audi key fob not working 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is situated near the transmission's edge, above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located on the outside of the transmission, audi a3 key - Wifidb.science - directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control fuel, timig and boost. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky because there are two connector pins and they perform different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure resistance between the sensor and the ECU. If the sensor is operational, it should read around 1000 ohms. Check for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay if you have issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll, I experienced an abrupt drop in power like the engine is out of gas or injectors aren't firing any more. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine, there are no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stay closed. I checked the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 I got 0ohm. I'm assuming the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it is running fine with the G28 connected. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much all other possibilities out. However, i'm afraid that I may have missed something. Let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 receives a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both are used in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a salvage yard or from a parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make a decision about fuel injector timing etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you have a problem with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shut down.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter and a gearbox which shifts faster than normal, or a misfire while in gear. If you have any of these issues it is most likely that your sensor is deteriorating and requires replacement audi car key. The good news is they are very affordable and readily available particularly if you're looking at an Bosch unit which is what ours are. Alternatively, GM's version of this component is an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission in your new audi keys, as it transmits information to the ECU on how fast or slow the engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via an uncolored wire. The ECU uses this signal to control the flow of fuel and boost as well as timig. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor replacement key for audi failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these points. This is a common part across the audi key fob not working 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
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